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| Who Owns That Hairstyle? Braids, Cornrows, Twists, by Mary Cummins. Photos Wikipedia. |
Today we humans have many different hair types, colors and styles. The styles range from short straight bobs, crew cuts, and up-dos to cornrows, box braids and twists. Many different cultures take great pride in their traditional hairstyles. Some people take it a step further and claim to "own" certain general hairstyles exclusively such as cornrows, dreadlocks and box braids. If someone whom they believe is not of the same culture or race wears that style, they attack them and scream "cultural appropriation." Does any culture or race really own any general hair style exclusively? Hair archaeologists have shown these types of styles have actually existed independently in all cultures all over the world since the beginning of human kind.
The earliest humans first existed in Africa about 2.8 million year ago. Originally like our great ape ancestors we had short straight body hair over lighter skin like today's chimpanzees. We lost most of our body hair about 1.7 million years ago maintaining only hair on our head and certain other areas. Around 1.2 million years ago as humans moved from protected rain forests to more open savannas we developed darker skin and curly hair to protect us from the sun in Africa.
The hair on our heads only started growing longer in a population that left Africa 60,000 years ago and went to Eurasia. Part of that population returned to Africa which is why most have long hair today. The ones who stayed in Asia and Europe developed lighter skin to better absorb vitamin D. Hair also became straighter and some hair colors became lighter in Europe around 17,000 years ago through the process of natural selection.
Ever since we've had hair and it got longer we've styled it for form and function. Humans have been coloring, curling, pinning, cutting and braiding their hair for adornment for thousands of years. Hair was used to attract a mate or share social status. Braids of all types can be found in every culture and place on earth. Many of these braiding techniques are similar to rope, fabric and basket making techniques which are just as old. The earliest reproductions of braided hairstyles were about 25,000 to 30,000 years ago in figurines the Venus of Willendorf in Austria and Venus of Brassempouy in France. Obviously braids existed long before reproductions or written languages depicting and describing them.
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| Photo: Wikipedia |
Cornrows, box braids and micro braids are most often associated with African culture. These same types of braids were also in Asia, Europe and the Americas thousands of years ago. Braids are found all over the world. "Where there is hair, there are braids." (Mary Cummins) Below are just a few examples of braids in different cultures throughout history.
Tibetan micro braids go back to at least 3500 B.C. and are "used to convey marital status, tribe, wealth, power, and religion. In Tibetan culture, braids can also indicate social rank and tribal affiliation." Micro braids are tiny box braids. (See top photo far right)
"Viking (Nordic) braids can be traced back to the Viking Age, but braids have been practiced in the parent cultures of the Vikings, the Danes and Scandinavians." Vikings had French, Dutch, cornrow braid styles along with dreadlocks. (I use French and Dutch braids to describe a style of braids and not a place of origin). Locks form naturally with both curly and straight hair. As a child with long straight hair I would have "neglect" locks if I didn't put my hair in a braid at night, while swimming or riding a bicycle. Many different cultures with straight and curly hair styled locks.
"According to The Celtic Fringe, both men and women of ancient Scotland wore their hair long, often braided or in curls. Women also wore their braids pinned to the head and also incorporated knots and buns in their hairstyles. The Romans described Celts as having ''hair like snakes''. That could be dreadlocks, could also just be many braids."
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| War spirits … ninth-century silver valkyrie pendants from Denmark. Photograph: The National Museum of Denmark. Cornrow, Micro braids |
Pre-Incan, Andean cultures had micro braids and regular braids dating back thousands of years. The Incans believed that "hair was a source of spiritual power and that cutting it was sacrilege. Many Inca men and women grew their hair long and adorned it with braids, beads, and other decorations." Recently a 500 year old mummy La Doncella was found in the Andes with perfectly preserved micro braids.
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| La Doncella, Photo: Wikipedia |
American Indians have been in the Americas for at least 35,000 years. They have a deep spiritual connection to hair. "In many Native American tribes, hair is considered sacred and represents an individual's cultural identity. Long hair is said to promote self-respect, pride, and a sense of belonging. It's also seen as a physical extension of one's hopes, dreams, thoughts, prayers, and experiences. For example, the Sioux and Cherokee believe that hair is a sacred part of the body and should never be cut without a specific reason." They believe the three strands of the basic braid represent mind, body and spirit. They wear all types of braids and locks.
Mexicans are part indigenous Native American with an influence from Spain and Europe. Indigenous braids or "trenzas" include French, Dutch, micro braids and plain large three strand braids woven with colorful fabric, ribbons, bows and flowers. Mexican hairstyles include Dutch milkmaid braids made famous by Frida Khalo which were adorned with flowers. I wore Mexican braids with colored ribbons as a Latina child.
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Indians in South Asia have had braids for thousands of years. The Harappan civilization of South Asia was a Bronze Age society dating from 3300 BCE which wore braids. Some Indians don't cut their hair believing it honors God's gift. South Asians are known for beautiful hair jewelry intertwined with their hair.
Greeks, Romans, Egyptians and Europeans have had all types of braids, twists, styles for thousands of years. The two Venuses above are but two examples. Egyptians had braids since at least 3500 B.C. in recorded history but probably since at least 6,000 B.C.. Egyptians are not Africans even though Egypt is located on the north west tip of the continent of Africa near the Middle East south of Turkey. Egyptians came from an earlier population that left Africa and then later returned to the area of Egypt around 6000 BC. Per DNA research "Ancient Egyptians were closely related to Anatolian and Neolithic European populations, as well showing strong genetic traces from the Levant areas in the near east (Turkey, Lebanon)." Middle Eastern people especially in Turkey have many braided styles.
"Although many cultures want to take sole credit for the braid, they cannot be traced to a single origin." Like how different versions of God are traceable to nearly every culture, braids, too, are polygenetic. "During the Bronze Age and Iron Age many peoples in the Near East, Asia Minor, Caucasus, East Mediterranean and North Africa are depicted in art with braided or plaited hair and beards. Similarly, the practice is recorded in Europe, Africa, India, China, Japan, Australasia and Central Asia."
Most of us have hair which we enjoy styling in different ways. Everyone should style their hair the way they enjoy. If someone with dark curly hair wants to dye it blonde and straighten it, fine. If someone with blonde straight hair wants to braid it in cornrows, also fine. Dye your hair, straighten it, braid it, shave it all off, or wear a scarf or a hat. All cultures have worn all types of styles since the beginning of human kind. We should all be accepting of other's hair style choices without attacking each other.
The subject of cultural appropriation is a sensitive and complex issue. We should honor and respect the cultural significance of specific hairstyles. It's also important to consider context and intention behind a person's hair style choice. If one is accused of cultural appropriation for wearing a certain specific or general style, it may reflect on the part of the wearer or the viewer. We should always engage in open and respectful conversations to understand all perspectives to work toward mutual understanding and respect for all cultures.
References
Most citations are hyperlinked above
Wikipedia http://www.wikipedia.org
"Where there is hair, there are braids." Mary Cummins
Mary Cummins of Cummins Real Estate is a certified residential licensed appraiser in Los Angeles, California. Mary Cummins is licensed by the California Bureau of Real Estate appraisers and has over 35 years of experience.
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